Raising goats? Here are five basics every first time goat owner should know. This is your guide to raising goats for beginners.
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When you first start raising goats it can feel like an information overload, I know when we first started raising goats we had no clue what we were doing and it was hard to know where to start. That is why in this post we cover five basics every first time goat owner should know as well as a few other things that are super helpful when you are starting out with goats.
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Raising Goats for Beginners: Choosing your goats
So you’ve decided to take the plunge and want to get goats. What kind of goat should you get? This section will help you choose the breed that would be best for you and how to choose a goat to purchase.
Goat Breeds
There are many goat breeds, we won’t cover them in depth here, but will talk about the notable characteristics and what breed is usually used for. The breeds are:
Dairy Breeds
- Nubian– Used for meat and milk, this breeds milk is prized for cheese making because of a protein it produces. This breed also has the highest butter fat of the standard sized goats.
- Saanen — The highest producing milk goat breed.
- Alpine — A solid choice when it comes to milking. I used to drink alpine milk and it was delicious!
- La Mancha– This breed has very small ears and are considered very good milkers.
- Toggenburg– Known for having a distinctly flavored, goaty milk.
Meat Breeds
- Boer– AS fast growers, Boers are probably the most popular meat breed.
- Kiko — From New Zealand, a hardy breed often used as pack goats in addition to meat.
- Savannah– Related to the Boer with similar qualities.
- Mytonic (Fainting)– Most famous for their dramatic response to being scared, these are also a smaller meat goat.
- Spanish — supposedly not a super friendly breed, though they make excellent at eating brush and a good meat goat.
Fiber Breeds
- Angora– Also used as a meat goat, but mainly prized for its beautiful, soft fibers.
Small Breeds
- Nigerian Dwarf– Used for milk, this breed has the highest butter fat of all the dairy goats at about 12%. Cute and great for small spaces as they only weigh 50-70 pounds, though they are especially hard to contain.
- Pygmy — Cute, little and chunky, this is a great small scale meat goat breed.
Usually if a breed is mini and then a breed (IE mini La Mancha) it means it is a cross between a Nigerian Dwarf and that breed.
A few questions to ask yourself when choosing your goat breed: What do I want to do with my goats? Do I want milk? Meat? Fiber? A pet? What breeds are available in my area? How large of a goat do I want to handle? Do I want to be super friendly with my goats?
Males or Females?
A buck or billy is an intact male goat. A doe is a female goat. Do you need a billy? It depends on if you want babies! If you want to milk your does, or grow your herd without purchasing goats, you will need to breed your does somehow. Two options are keeping your own buck, or hiring a stud.
Keeping your own Buck
The pros to keeping your own buck is that you have the control to raise him according to your standards and are more independent that way. It is also cheaper to keep your own buck if you have a larger herd. The cons are that you have to feed, house and care for another goat, in addition to that when it is breeding season billy goats can really stink.
Hiring a stud
The pros to a stud are that if you have a small herd they are usually cheaper than keeping a buck. The cons are that you can introduce disease to your herd from someone else’s buck and it may be challenging to find a stud or figure out how to get your does to him. You can usually find a stud on your local classifieds or on Craigslist.
Picking Out Your Goat
Craigslist and your local classifieds are a great place to look for goats. Search for the breed your wanting. Try to get a feel for the pricing and be careful with those goats that are a really low price, you usually get what you pay for. If you want to raise the goat goat for slaughter you will want a whether (a castrated male) or a female, as to avoid off tasting meat from castrated males.
There are registered and unregistered animals. Registered goats are goats that have a certain pedigree and meet the standards of the breed. In my experience registered or register-able goats look and perform better, though one of the best goats we’ve had was unregistered. So take that with a grain of salt.
Is a clean Herd Important?
Another good quality to look for is a goat from a clean herd. A clean herd is one that has tested negative for certain diseases. It isn’t a necessity in my book, but for some people it is an absolute MUST. I have gotten goats that aren’t from clean herds and I haven’t had problems. But I do have a neighbor who has had to put down a third of her herd because she brought in a goat from a not clean herd. Bare in mind that some people who have “clean” herds don’t test they just only buy from other clean herds, it might be a good idea to clarify with the seller whether or not they actually test their goats.
When picking out your goat you want to look for an animal with a shiny healthy looking coat. You want a bright, aware animal, not a lethargic, dull one. You will want the animal to be easy to work with, especially if you are using it for milk or fiber. It’s a good idea to pet the goat. Ask about the health of the goat. Look and make sure the goat doesn’t have any weird lumps, especially around the backs of the jaws. If there are other goats, look to make sure they also are healthy. If applicable ask about how many babies this goat has had, if she was a good mother and if the births went smoothly.
Horns or No Horns?
Horns are the defense and cooling system for goats. If you de-horn your goats it can interfere with both those things. De-horning doesn’t always go right and often goats will end up with parts of their horns, called scurs, growing anyway, but weaker and more fragile. These can break off if they smack their heads into something and may bleed. However some goats hurt each other with their horns and can hurt you as you are handling them. Horns also tend to get stuck places, and some goats can die from getting their horns stuck in the fence. Your decision on what to do with horns is up to your specific situation.
How Many Goats should I start with?
Goats are herd animals, so it is a good idea to have at least two. Beyond that the size of your space and how much capacity you have should guide you.
Raising Goats for Beginners: Housing your Goats
Goats are the Houdini’s of the livestock world. This section is all about where your goats will be living.
How much Space do my goats need?
How much space to give your goats is really dependent on the breed and size of your goats, but a starting pint it is said a goat should have 10-20 square feet of indoor space and at least 200 square feet of outdoor space. Goats are more likely to respect the fence if they have enough room.
Fencing For Goats
There are SO many ideas for goat fencing out there it can be overwhelming to choose one, here are some questions you can ask that will help you make a good choice.
Can they get their heads stuck in it? Goats can fit their heads in a lot smaller spaces than you would think!
Can they eat the fence and is it okay if they eat it? If it is a wood fence or a plastic fence this is an important thing to consider.
Is it tall enough? AS a general rule of thumb a four foot fence should be good for most goats. Though a motivated billy goat or a goat with attitude will get over that. Smaller goats are better at getting over fences than larger goats, they are very agile and can literally climb them. At some point it is better just to make the inside of the pen as appealing as possible to keep the goats in rather than focusing on the height of the fence.
Portable Fencing For Goats
I LOVE the idea of being able to move my goats around my pastures and practice rotational grazing. I had some electric fencing for my cows, so I put up a pen for my goats. They stayed in it. Until they got bored and then they walked right through it. Goats will respect a net electric fence, but not the wire or tape options.
You can also construct movable pens that are a physical barrier, as opposed to a psychological barrier like electric fence. We have put together a movable pen with a pipe frame and fencing that worked well for goats.
Housing and other Goat pen essentials
Your goats need a place to get out of the snow, rain and sun. It doesn’t have to be fancy, if you are in a warmer climate a roof with one or two walls will suffice. Inside the goat pen take care that the roof of your house isn’t close enough to the fence for your goats to utilize it in escaping.
Goats need water. If your goats can reach them, five gallon buckets make excellent goat waterers. Keep enough out so they don’t run out of water in between you filling them. If you have baby goats running around, make sure they won’t fall in and drown.
An empty cable spool is a great goat toy, they love playing with them.
Raising Goats for Beginners: Feeding Your Goats
This section is all about what to feed your goats, how much to feed your goats and other good things to know about your goats eating.
The Best Feed for Your Goats
Here are five feed options for your goats:
- Pasture, with some roughage
- Grass Hay
- Alfalfa Hay
- Fodder
- Tree Fodder
Now we’ll talk about them each in more detail.
Pasture, with some roughage
Pasture, with some roughage is hands down the best feed for your goats. Roughage is trees and shrubs that goats can eat. Goats have a browsing habit of grazing. This means that goats prefer to eat at their eye level. They will eat above and below that, but they prefer to eat at eye level. I’ve seen my goats turn down a nice green, grassy lawn and go to eat the woody shrubs surrounding my house. My goats love roses.
The pros of pasture are that a good pasture is the best nutritionally and health wise for your goats and can be the easiest on your pocket book. It is also the most self sufficient option. If you are raising your goats for milk or meat it also yields the best products that way. Pasture can be challenging, especially if you have limited space or a dry climate. Though we have been working on a way to get fabulous pasture here in the desert so stay posted for that.
Resources for Learning Pasture Management
Pasture management i s a world unto its own and can be a challenge to learn. Allan Savory’s book Holistic Management is an excellent resource on grazing. He goes deep, but it is worth it. Also a subscription to The Stockman Grass Farmer may be worth it, though they tend to talk about thinks on a larger scale then what most homesteaders will be dealing with, they still have excellent information on grazing. Listed below are some other fabulous books on grazing.
- Dirt to Soil by Gabe Brown
- Salad Bar Beef by Joel Salatin (This is about cows, but there is still good stuff here)
Grass hay
My next choice for goats is grass hay. Grass hay usually describes any hay that isn’t alfalfa. Grass hay is a nice choice because it is easy to store and not too rich for goats. However, depending on where you live grass hay can be hard to find. Check out Craigslist or other local classifieds to find a grower. Local feed stores are another good resource to find hay.
It is cheaper to buy hay by the ton then by the bale. If you buy it by the ton keep in mind that depending on how heavy each bale is you will need to have a place to put anywhere from 20-50 bales.
There is a hay, similar to grass hay, called three way. Three way is usually a blend of alfalfa, oat and barley hay.
A Note on Hay: People get hay and straw mixed up all the time. Hay is a plant that has been cut and dried when it is green. Hay is greener and can be more leafy looking than straw. Straw is the stems of dead plants, usually grains. Straw is usually more yellow/gold and doesn’t look leafy. Hay has a LOT more nutrition than straw and is a much better feed.
Alfalfa Hay
Alfalfa is a high octane feed. And goats don’t really need all that power. Alfalfa is a good source of nutrients for a lactating goat. If you are trying to really maximize milk output it is a wonderful feed. It can cause urinary calculi, which are like hard crystals that block the urethra of the goat. And goats can bloat on it, so be careful.
Something to bare in mind when purchasing alfalfa is that the different cuttings have different characteristics. So for example the first cutting usually has a lot of weeds in it, the second cutting (my personal favorite) is good, third is hot, meaning it tends to cause more bloat in animals. Alfalfa is hard to find non-GMO. It is out there, it is just hard to find. If you want to be sure ask your alfalfa farmer before you buy from them.
Fodder
Fodder is a grain, usually barley, that has been sprouted and grown to a certain size, than fed to animals. It is like the wheat grass they cut in the health food stores and juice. Fodder is a wonderful feed, and while I don’t have much experience with this one personally, there is a goat dairy near me that feed their goats fodder. Fodder is The trouble with fodder is that is takes a lot of seed which can be unsustainable and it requires some infrastructure. The fodder likes the temperature to be about 60-70 degrees Fahrenheit and likes it humid. Those conditions can be hard to make consistently. Fodder is a little too finicky for me, but it could be an excellent choice depending on your situation.
Tree Fodder
There are certain trees and shrubs that can be grown for feed. They hold their nutrition well and are easy for animals to eat. The most famous of these are the lucerne trees, which include tagasaste trees. Lot’s of what we call “trash trees” are great fodder. Here is a good resource that talks about other kinds of tree hay. This one is a little bit more of a time commitment, as you would need to plant the trees if you dont have them already. I don’t have experience with this yet, but this is the next thing I want to try.
Other things for your goats Diet
Mineral/salt
Your goats will need some sort of mineral/salt. You can get this in a bag from your local feed store, or you can get in block form. We have a salt mine close to our homestead so we just buy big slat rocks and put those out for our goats and they work great.
Grain
Grain is a very rich food and goats don’t need them. If you are trying to maximize milk production grain is a great supplement.
A few words of warning: ease them into eating grain, it can give them diarrhea. Don’t use grain as more than a supplement and don’t give it to billy’s as it messes with their kidneys and can kill them.
How much should I feed my goats?
As with so many things in homesteading, it depends. Lactating goats require a different amount than not lactating goats. Meat goats and dairy goats need different amounts. As a general rule of thumb you can base how much to feed your goats off of how they look and act. Are they constantly bahhing for more? Give them a little more. Are they leaving extra behind when you go to feed them again? Cut back a little. Here is a article that covers how to tell if your goat is too fat or too thin.
Another, more left brain approach, is to give 3-4% of the goats body weight in feed, this is usually in the realm of 2-4 lbs of food. Though take that with a grain of salt as goats come in all shapes and sizes.
Good to know about goats stomach(s)
Goats are also ruminants. Ruminants include animals with a four compartment stomach. Cows, sheep and goats are all ruminants. If you put a ruminant out on pasture, they will tend to eat a whole bunch at once, then go sit in the shade somewhere, regurgitate what they just ate and chew it more. This is called chewing cud. It is important to know about ruminants because they have a tendency to bloat if given too much leguminous feed (alfalfa for example.)
Raising Goats for Beginners: Goat Health
Goats are usually very healthy animals, especially if their nutritional and shelter needs are met. But every now and then you run into health problems with your goats. This section will cover the more common health problems and main tips for healthy goats.
Goat diseases to look out for
Here are some of the goat diseases and problems to look out for with your goats.
Caprine arthritis and encephalitis (CAE)
CAE is a virus that infects goats that can cause arthritis or mastitis like symptoms. Swollen joints, weight loss, paralysis and seizures or a hard hot udder are all symptoms. This condition is more prevalent in dairy breeds. Many goats may be infected but not displaying symptoms. It is most common in young kids. This disease is spread primarily through mother to baby via her milk, though tools contaminated with blood, like a dehorning iron, can also spread it. This disease usually leads to the death of the animal. There are no widespread cures of this disease. The best option is to prevent by buying goats from clean herds and regularly testing.
Caseous Lymphadenitis (CL)
CL is a bacterial infection that most commonly causes infection and abscesses in the lymph nodes of the goat, though it may cause them in the internal organs of the goat. It can lead to weight loss and decreased milk production. It also degrades the carcass of meat goats and the quality of the hides that come off them. This disease is contagious and is most often spread by contact with pus from an infected goat. This disease is not treatable with antibiotics and goats who get is usually have it for the rest of their lives. The best prevention for this disease is to regularly test and buy from herds that have tested clean.
Johne’s Disease
Johne’s is a disease that infects the small intestines of ruminants. It’s symptoms include diarrhea and weight loss. It is usually fatal. Johne’s is transmitted through feces and milk from infected goats. Testing and keeping a closed herd is recommended for preventing this disease.
Other Abscesses
Sometimes goats will eat something or get a fox tail somewhere that will cause an abscess to form. These usually resolve themselves, but it may be you need to intervene in some cases.
Mastitis
Mastitis is an infection of the udder. Symptoms include a hot, hard udder and stringy milk. Mastitis can be treated with antibiotics and frequent and thorough milking. It can be prevented by maintaining good nutrition, with consistent milking and a clean milking environment.
Bloat
The rumen of the goat produces gases that it normally releases through burping. If a lot of gas is produced at once or there is a blockage stopping the goat from burping, it will bloat. When a goat bloats they will act uncomfortable and the usually sunken pocket in front of their hip will bulge out on one ore both sides. Bloat is usually caused by too much rich food, like grain. One treatment for bloat is to walk your goat around till it burps the gas out. Bloat can develop quickly and if left untreated can kill your goat. Here is another resource with tips for treating bloat in your goats.
Hoof Trimming
Goats hooves continually grow through out their lives. depending on the terrain a goat walks on, as they walk and run they wear them down. Some goats don’t get enough ware and tare so you will need to trim their hooves. Here is a great resource for how to trim goat hooves. To prevent the need for trimming you can add cinder blocks, rock and other rough terrain to your pen.
Raising Goats for Beginners: Breeding Goats
Here are the basics of how to breed goats.
How, When and Where to Breed
In order to breed a goat the doe must be in heat. Some breeds of goats only go into heat certain times of the year. Others you can breed year round. You can tell a female is in heat because she will appear more agitated and be louder. She will also allow other goats to mount her. If you have a buck nearby he should be more interested then normal in her.
An easy way to breed goats is to move the doe into the bucks pen and let the magic happen! If you don’t want to watch for her heat cycle you can put her in with the buck for a month or so and get it done that way too. You could move the buck into the females pen, but he may be more distracted there and not focus on the job at hand.
Can I keep my does and bucks together all the time?
Can I keep my does and bucks together all the time? Yes you can! There are pros and cons to keeping them together and keeping them separate. If you keep them together they find their groove and rhythm and you don’t have to worry about managing breeding as much. The downside is that bucks are stink, and if you are milking can make your milk taste goaty. Also you get surprises when babies are born because you don’t always know what time of year they are coming.
Goat Pregnancy and birth
Goats are pregnant for about five months. They usually give birth twins or triplets, though single babies are common their first pregnancy and three to five babies is not unheard of.
If you are milking your goats it is good to stop milking your goat at least two months before she gives birth, if not more.
About week before your goat gives birth her udder will fill up and get really hard. This is called “bagging up”. You will want to provide a quiet spot where your goat can give birth. Kidding, goat birth, is usually a smooth process. The signs of labor include restlessness, grunting/staining, and mucus coming out her hind end. If you catch her in labor, just keep an eye on her and look for progress, like a hoof or nose protruding out. If after about 6-ish hours of labor she hasn’t progressed, seek a vets advice.
The First Hours
After the baby is born the mother should start licking it off and nuzzling it and the baby should be trying to stand up. It can be really tempting to want to grab that baby goat and cuddle, but at this stage of the game you want to give mama and baby room to bond. Look out and make sure the mam isn’t rejecting the baby. Mamas who are rejecting their kids will try to head butt them and wont let them nurse.
The first milk a goat gives is called colostrum. It is very important that baby goats eat this first milk. This lines their digestion with good bacteria and kick starts their immune system. A lot of baby goats need help learning how to nurse, so you may have to get in there and help them nurse. You don’t need to rush this, most baby goats will be fine for the first 24 hours, but by then they will need to be getting some nourishment from mom.
Baby Goats
Once the kids are born there are several option for raising them. You can leave them with their mama and have her raise them, or you can separate them and bottle feed them. Bottle fed babies are usually friendlier, but mam raised babies are usually bigger and healthier.
You can wean baby goats when they are six to eight weeks old and their eating dry forage.
Happy Goat Raising!
There you have it! Five basics every first time goat owner should know. Getting ready to raise goats can feel like A LOT, but hopefully with these tips under your belt it will help you feel like you have more of a handle on goats.
Below I have listed some other helpful resources to know about when raising goats.
Goat Resources
There is a lot to learn about goats and we have just scratched the surface. Here I have list some wonderful goat resources.
Books and Publications
Natural Goat Care, by Pat Coleby. You can buy this here on Amazon.
Storey’s Guide to Raising Dairy Goats. Get it here.
Storey’s Guide to Raising Meat Goats. Get it here.
Holistic Management, by Alan Savory. Get it here.
Dirt to Soil, By Gabe Brown. Get it here.
Salad Bar Beef, By Joel Salatin. Get it here.
The Stockman Grass Farmer. Visit their website here.
Caprine Supply. Visit their website here.
There is a lot of good information out there. There are many forums and blogs on goats, if you google your question most of the time there will be an answer.
Check out the homesteading resource page for more awesome books and resources on homesteading!