This post is all about how to plant fruit trees.
There is nothing quiet like homegrown fruit! But how do you plant fruit trees to promote their growth? In this article we will cover how to choose, select the site for and plant fruit trees in a way to set you up for good yields.
Psst… if you already have a fruit tree and need a two second reference on how deep to plant the fruit tree. Click here to jump to that part of the post:)
Step 1: Choose Fruit trees
Beyond choosing whether to plant an apple or a cherry tree there are other considerations to think of when choosing fruit trees. There are certain things to look for in certain varieties of trees, say apples versus cherries, and I’m not going to cover those here. But I will cover the more general things that apply to most kinds of fruit trees.
There are a couple of options that are presented when you choose fruit trees. It might be to get bare root or container trees? Dwarf, semi dwarf or standard? Rootstock? Which is best?
Bare Root is (Usually) Better
Bare root is a way that nurseries sell trees. The nursery grows the tree in dirt, and then when the tree is a certain size (this can be anywhere from 12 inches to 5-6 feet tall) they dig it and it’s main roots out of the ground and send it to you. When you unbox a bareroot tree the roots are wrapped in wet newspaper. Sometimes there is this jelly like stuff slathered on the roots to help them stay damp. The nursery usually sends the tree while it is dormant, so it won’t have any leaves.
The pros of bareroot trees is that you aren’t dealing with a root bound tree and they tend to be more vigorous. However, once your bareroot trees arrive it is best to plant them as soon as possible, where as a potted tree can sit and wait in its pot for a while.
ROot Stock?
Most fruit trees have a root graft. This mean that the nursery grew the trunk of the tree in one variety that has good flavor or fruiting characteristics and then cut it off and grafted it onto a root stock that has disease resistance or faster growth in its character profile. Rootstock also determines the sizing of your tree (dwarf, semi dwarf, standard. We’ll talk about that next.) What rootstock you get can make a BIG difference in the performance of your tree. We purchased some peach trees one year that the rootstock was described as being “vigorous.” Those peaches shot out of the ground and where the queens of the orchard. Most nurseries will tell you what rootstock they use and the different attributes of each one on their websites, and then you can decide which one fits your needs best.
Dwarf, Semi Dwarf, Or Standard Size, WHich is Better?
Dwarf, semi dwarf and standard refers to the size the fruit trees will by at maturity. Fruit trees that are dwarf size are usually 8-10 feet tall, semi dwarf 12-15ish feet tall and standard anywhere from 18-25 feet, depending on variety.
The way we get trees to grow smaller or bigger is based on the root stock the main tree is grafted onto. Certain rootstocks restrict the growth of the tree causing it to be semi dwarf. And others restrict it even more resulting in a dwarf tree. So a standard sized trunk will be grafted onto a dwarf habit rootstock and you will get a dwarf fruit tree.
Dwarf and semi dwarf trees are really convenient to harvest from because they are shorter. You can reach the whole tree with a basic ladder or fruit picker. That being said the dwarfing rootstock can put additional stress on and tree and can cause trees to not do well in already stressful climates. For example where I live in the desert, the dry windy conditions are already stressful for trees so I would lean towards planting standard sized trees.
Where to Find Fruit Trees For Sale
Your local hardware and home improvement stores often will carry fruit trees in the spring. Though these are often potted fruit trees and in my experience can be hit or miss. Some universities and forest services offer tree programs where they sell cheap bareroot trees once a year. It’s worth a call to see if there are any such programs in your area.
Online there are a lot of options. Here are a few that I have tried and some that are worth looking into.
Stark Bros Nurseries and Orchards One of the bigger names in bareroot fruit trees stark bros has a large selection and a survival grantee. My success with their trees has been hit or miss, but I know some people have great success with them. Visit their website here.
Grandpa’s Orchard This is where we bought our amazing peach trees! Grandpa’s orchard has a variety of fruit trees, but has an especially large selection of apples. And if your are interested in grafting your own trees they also sale rootstock to backyard nurserymen! Visit their website here.
Trees of Antiquity If you want heirloom trees this is the place for you! This nursery specializes in bareroot heirloom fruit trees and collects a lot of those old varieties. They are also a good place to find some of the “other” fruit trees such as persimmons, paw paw and jujube. Visit their website here.
Step 2: CHoose Location Of Trees
You will want to plant your fruit trees where most of their needs and preferences are met. That will depend a good deal on variety (peach, cherry, plum, etc.) but there are a few things that most trees share.
- Wind protection
- Water (If you will be watering the tree consider how you will do that when choosing location.)
- Sunlight
- Good Soil
It is recommended, if your property allows it, to place your fruit trees on the upper part of a gradual slope. This avoids the spring blossom damage from the cold air pockets and frost that accumulate in low spots.
Some people also put their trees on the north side of a slope or the north side of their house trying to keep the trees dormant as long into the spring season as they can. Whether this trick actually works I don’t know, but it’s out there.
Choose a location that is accessible for when it is time to harvest and makes the care of the tree as easy as possible.
For my friends that are planting fruit trees in the desert: I heard someone who was planting trees in the desert recommend that you put a heavy mulch down several months to a year before you plant your tree in a location and then plant your tree. This will help the soil be nice and wet and ready to nurture those little fruit tree roots!
Step 3: Dig The Hole
This is where the rubber hits the road! How to actually plant a fruit tree! How deep should you dig the hole? Should you put anything in the hole? These and other questions will be answered in this section.
How deep should I dig the hole when planting fruit trees?
If you are planting bareroot trees, dig your hole deep enough to fit all the trees roots. You don’t want to have to fold the roots of your bareroot trees too much, though some of them are so long you will end up folding them. Sometimes there is a line of dirt visible and you can tell how deep the fruit tree was planted before, use that as a rough guide for how deep to put it.
Should I Add COmpost to the Hole?
Some people swear by putting compost in the hole, others say it is a hinderance. The reason for putting compost in the hole is it can give the tree a little jump of fertility and hopeful help it survive. However this can backfire because the tree will only grow roots in the area of the hole because that area is so nutrient dense. Then the tree will never develop the root system necessary to thrive. I tend to lean toward the no compost in the hole, though I know some people that it has worked really well for growing grapevines. Take your pick!
How far apart should I plant My Fruit Trees?
It depends. Most fruit trees are more pioneer type trees, meaning they are the first to grow and colonize a new space. Because of this they tend to like more room and don’t like to be crowded. As a rule of thumb give them enough space that their canopies will just touch at the tips. Most tree varieties will have an estimated size listed when you buy them, take that estimated canopy spread and plant your fruit trees that far apart.
That being said, many people put fruit trees closer together and they grow fine. And some varieties of fruit trees prefer being closer to other trees and having more shade. Do your research and find out the specific habits and preferences of your kind of fruit tree.
If you live in the desert, water your hole
Out where we live when we plant a tree the dirt is usually dry. So before I put the tree in I like to fill the hole with water a few times and let it soak in before I plant my tree.
Step 4: PLant
Put your tree in the hole and back fill the dirt. Make sure the dirt is not in huge chunks and somewhat broken up. Do your best to make sure the whole hole is filled, no air gaps or anything like that.
Keep The Root Flare Exposed
The root flare of the tree is the part of the tree where the trunk meets the roots. Having this part of the tree is essential for the health of the tree. Most trees are buried too deep and have this part of the tree underground. Sometime take note of the trees around your area that are doing well, usually they have their root flare exposed. Be sure that you don’t plant too deep! It can be hard to tell where the root flare is, especially on small bareroot trees, but try your best.
Step 5: Mulch and Water
Take nice wood chips or mulch of your choice and put a layer around the tree. This will help protect the soil and build a good microbe community around the tree, while retaining moisture. Take care to keep your root flare exposed! Water your tree and viola! You have a planted fruit tree.
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